Before clipping any wires, keep in mind that most older model year trucks have the same bulb filament used for both the brake function and the turn indicator function. For that to work, the brake wire runs to the turn indicator, so that when you turn on the flashing turn signal, it switches out the brake light signal for that side so that the two signals don't collide. So don't just check the brake light.
Also check the turn signals. In my case, the brake lights didn't work but the turn signals did, so that told me the wiring to the bulbs was OK and the wiring running in the frame was OK and the bulb contacts were OK. So I assume I need to check the brake light switch, the fuse, and for a truck, any wiring done for the trailer hitch to make sure it is OK. I had the same problem on my 91 K1500.
The most common reason rear lights of any kind will fail is rotted wires. They run through wire shroud from front to back along the inside of the frame to the left tail light. Running this way leaves them exposed to the elements.Check along the run for rotted, broken or degraded wire. Most spots would be at anchor points, junctions, etc.
The brake light switch is under the top of the brake pedal arm, under the dash. Examine the switch that you got from the dealer so you know how it works. The red tab, when pressed down, locks it into place. SO, the last step before buttoning everything down is to press the red tab down to lock the switch in place. Jul 05, 2017 Your car Brake lights wont turn off or when your car brake lights stay on you may need to replace the Brake Light Switch. How to Replace The Brake Light Switch replacement is easy and fix it.
If you do find a faulty wire, just run a new one from the engine bay to the back and splice it in. Its a cheap fix and takes WAY less time.If it was me i would clip the wire at the tail light harness, about 4 inches back, then move to the engine bay and look for the same wire there. It will most likely be beside your brake fluid assembly, in a cluster, entering the firewall. Find the wire and clip it about 4 inches back too. Solder and shrink tube the new wire to these pigtails and give it a test.If you are unsure of the wire color associated with brake light function, you can access wiring diagrams online, but be warned, chev/gm have been known to change color codes from time to time.It could also be a relay, the box is located in the engine bay and the relay will be marked, but its unlikely to be the problem.
There is a switch. I think on most C/K 1500/2500 it is on the brake pedal arm or the arm hits it. It is $5-$10; you might take ALL your truck data to the auto parts store, buy a new switch, then look for the same thing around the brake arm or under the hood.There's a fuse. Find the fusebox and look for 'brake'. The Owner's Manual may have clues.Fuses usually blow for a reason. Some bulb-faults can blow a fuse.
Change the brake lamp bulbs; on a vehicle this old it is time to do that. Open tailgate, there's two (rusted) Phillips screws into the taillight lens.
Unscrew, the lens un-hooks on the other side. Flat rubbery thing with connector and 3 lumps. Unhook connector latch and carefully pull out.
Use 1/4 nutdriver to remove 2 screws in rubbery thing. Three bulbs: they just pull out but won't want to come easy.
IIRC bottom is backup and the top one is brake.Look at the wires, because if it is not switch and not a bulb-fault, then as TBAS says it is probably wires, pinched or broken, from tail to switch to fusebox. I have a 1994 GMC Sierra C1500 2WD with 4.3l w/automatic.
It was a fleet vehicle. Plain Jane accept for High Output Heater, Limited Slip Diff and Engine Block Heater. Brake lights were working intermittently. Would come on when pedal as first depressed then go out after pedal traveled down a bit.
I put in a new switch and all was well for 3 months. Then the problem came back again. I was ready to put a new switch in again when I took a close look at the wire connector on the harness. The end yellow lead was melted in the connector and the female plug for this wire was black. I got a boneyard replacement and wired it in. Problem solved. Been reading about all your various symptoms.
I have been fighting a taillight issue for 2 days. Only left turn worked - No brake lights - no running rear lights - no flashers - no backup lights. But driver side turn sig DID work. Changed all bulbs (were ONLY 25 yrs old) - Ck'd bulb sockets (all ok) Ck'd fuses and pedal switch - both ok. Charted all progressive actions. Nothing made sense.THEN thought back on what I might have caused when I took the bed off to replace a brake line in Sept. traced all movements I might have made that might've CAUSED the taillight issues.
Looked the wire connections over and came to a ground at the frame near the trailer hitch lead. Took it loose - did a fair job cleaning the frame surface rust and reconnected it. Thought I had done a thourough job but still no change. Went back to that ground again - took it loose - stripped the wire casing back a couple inches and BINGO!!!!!!!! The wire was rotten - Stripped the wire casing back real goodand got to good clean un-rotten wire - took a FILE to the frame rail rust 'till I found bare metal re-attached the ground VERY WELL - -no more taillight problems. So if things get just too wierd - ck your grounds! Either you have a broken wire, or blown fuse or you have a messed up blinker switch.
The way those taillights work theres a white wire under dash on the column that white wire is for brake light. So the way the brake lights work they go through a relay and through blinker switch. So you could have a blown relay i would start there. 1 relay is on the back of the fuse panel, the other is next brake pedal on that panel to the left of the brake pedal.
Try replacing those, and if that doesnt work look for broken wires under dash, and check all the fuses, replace blinker switch, and hazard switch. If all that doesnt fix it then you must have broken wires or bad grounds. Its the taillight circuit board or a broken wire. If you look on here i asked same question and i posted up what the reason for my issue ended up being. Moat likely a bad or broken ground, circuit board that is on the back of the taillight or a broken wire.
To figure it out get a test light clean a piece of metal connect teat light ground, then unplug taillight and stick trat light probe into 1 slot at a time see what works and what doesnt and write it down. Then go to the other taillight do samething. Update: my trucks turn signals and brakelights were working when the headlights were off. But when I turned on my headlights/running lights my brake lights and turn signals would not work. My turn signals in the front would dim when I turned them on and the ones in the rear would turn onand not flash.But then I noticed when I hit the brakes with the lights off my front sidemarkers would come on very dimly.Long story 'short'.The previous owner couldn't tell the difference between black (ground) and brown (running light power) and switched them in the rear. So the frame was working as a power source.but only when the headlight/ running light circuit was on.So if you see a fresh butt splice or recent wire remember 'human error' can cause some crazy wiring issuesby.
Jim, common problem. If your third brake light works either way but the rear brake lights stop working when the truck is on its a faulty ground wire to the stop lamp relay. Other things use that ground when the key is on so its not strong enough then to activate the armature within the relay. Location of the relay depends on the year of the truck but mine was in the engine compartment on firewall by the master cylinder. You can trace the black wire from the relay but it goes into the harness so its much easier to cut the wire, place an eyelit terminal on it and attach it to the body with a self tapping screw.by. Hello fellas and thank you for your forum.
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I came to this site when I had the same issue with no brake lights after changing a booster. After many days probably a full week of taking it apart put it back together I figured out the problem was the hole at the end of the shaft that slides onto the brake pedal with the switch is therefore I drilled the hole of slightly larger and that fix my problem I went to the auto parts store and look up the parts numbers and they are definitely different numbers. I had this same problem. When I bought it from the first owner he told me someone tried to steal the car and hot wire it. When they were in the process of doing so they broke the hazard light switch on the steering wheel.
I couldnt figure out why my light didn't work. After a lot of trial and error and research I pulled a used switch from pick n pull and swapped it out. Problem solved. I'm a carpenter and not a mechanic and some how figures it out on my own. Google and YouTube can be very helpful sometimes.
Failure Date: I purchased a vehicle from better way auto sales on 10-31-14. After 2 weeks of driving, my check engine light came on. My odometer was also going up pretty fast, went from 89,000 miles to 93,000 miles in less than a month.
My brake light was also on permanently even when I wasn't pressing the brakes. I bought it to a mechanic & he gave me a list of issues that was wrong with the car. I called the dealership where I purchased the vehicle from to make a appointment to bring my car in to get fixed. They gave me a appointment weeks from when I called. After having my car for a few days, they called saying my dealership warranty has expired so they can't fix it. I'm 100% sure I didn't drive 4,000 miles in 3 weeks.
The dealership warranty expires after 90 days or 3,000 miles which ever one comes first. I also purchased a extended warranty which the dealership said my extended warranty don't cover the parts needed.
The labor of everything is expensive that they want me to pay out of pocket. I suspect that there's some odometer fraud going on or some type of scam.
I also feel as though the issues with the car shouldve been fixed before selling. They claim there was a safety inspection done on car but aren't brakes included in inspection? I have little knowledge when it come to things of this nature but I do suspect something wrong is going on with better way auto sales.See. Failure Date: Audi complaint and recall request the anti lock braking system no longer works like it should. When the vehicle is started I get a solid amber abs warning light along with a flashing brake light accompanied with three warning tones. Upon doing an internet search I immediately realized this problem with the bosch 5. 3 abs control module unit is extremely common on 1998 to 2001 Audi and vw models.
Audi/vw created a service bulletin to repair vw's in the same date range (bulletin 0517 NHTSA id number: 10016037), but ignored the issue with Audi's. As per the vehicle's owner's manual, it states that while the system is in this state, the rear brakes may lock up under braking.
This is a serious problem that will not allow me to brake quickly in emergency situations. The cost of replacing the abs module from the dealership was quoted at over $1000. A simple internet search reveals that thousands of Audi owners have voiced complaints. This is a blatant disregard for their customer's safety and a recall should be required.See.
Failure Date: On my 2000 Audi A4 the anti lock braking system no longer works. I get a solid amber abs warning light along with a flashing brake light accompanied with three warning tones when I start the car.
After much research, this is a common problem on 1998 to 2001 Audi and vw models. I have not heard of any recall, however there should be one. This is a serious problem that will not allow me to brake quickly in all situations especially winter conditions and the cost to get it replaced is far too much. Failure Date: The abs module on my vehicle has failed.
This problem seems to be quite prevalent amongst Audi and vw vehicles. An abs failure could cause accidents and deaths. This module should be recalled. The problem begins with three beeps, a solid yellow abs light and a flashing red brake light. The warning may come on momentarily while I am driving and go away, but in most cases will become more prevalent as time goes on.
Sometimes the abs and brake light remain on. Occasionally the abs activated (in other words abs braking has activated) while the car is in motion.
From researching this problem, it seems to be common with Audi A4 and vw passat b5 models. The abs warning light will come on each time the vehicle is operated.
The sudden abs activation will occur rarely. The consequences of sudden abs activation is obvious; braking when not expecting it can cause tragic results.
Losing the abs functionality while driving and when it is needed can also cause tragic results. I took my car into the shop. A vag was hooked up and the following code appeared:'01203 - electrical connection between abs and instrument cluster'replacing the electrical connection between the abs and instrument cluster will not solve the problem. The only resolution for this issue is to buy a new abs unit, buy a used abs unit, or have the current control module rebuilt.
Again, systematic and widespread failures of the abs control module are occurring. Numerous owners have filed complaints with regard to this issue. Please look into the issue and consider recalling the module before it tragic results do occur. Failure Date: Out of nowhere, abs light on, brake light flashing. Took to shop, they stated this is a common problem for the abs module to lock out communications; 1400 + for the repair. This is an expensive car; I find it outrageous the electronic module is outside, subject to weather conditions and salt.
Please see my complaint on coil springs as well. Researched the problem on the internet and it seems this is usual and customary for this model, I feel NHTSA needs to step up here and call Audi on the table. Failure Date: Abs intermittent.
System goes from fine, to inoperative with no warning. Details: intermittently get three beeps from the instrument cluster, with the yellow abs light lit steadily, and the red brake warning light blinking. While the system is in this state, the abs control module is not available via diagnostic interface, and the abs is inoperative. Shop diagnostics says:01203 - electrical connection between abs and instrument cluster03-10 - no signal - intermittent details of affected equipment:abs control module is 8e0-614-111-a (bosch abs/eds version 5. Failure Date: The abs control unit on my Audi A4 failed after 95,000 miles. I have no anti-lock braking and Audi has denied any responsibility for the part since it is out of warranty.
Searching through Audi forums I found this failure to be very common and everyone had no abs until the control unit was replaced which cost an average of $1500+. There were no events that lead up to the failure, I started the car one day and the abs and brake light started flashing on my dash.
I tested the abs and found that it indeed does not prevent my brakes from locking up. Nearly three years later, the part has not been fixed due to the high cost to repair it.